|From Dragon*Con Costumes|
I've got my Jedi costume pretty much complete at this point. I still need to rig up something to cover the buckle at the back of the belt so I can wear it without the robe. Just the fabric parts of this weigh in at about 9 lb. total, and it's a lot of layers. I've been training for wearing too much clothing for many years, but it's better to have the option to strip down a layer if I need to. Hopefully I'll be able to get a better full length picture than this, but it was the best I could do late at night with a tripod and timer. A lot of the internal seams are unfinished, but I figure I can get around to those later if I really want to.
The inner tunic is made from Osnaburg cotton. It was originally off-white, and I tried to dye it with some dark brown Rit (along with the robe fabric). I miscalculated my dye bath timing, so it didn't get to spend a lot of time in the dye and ended up lighter and spottier than I wanted. Fortunately, it's an inner layer and won't really be seen.
The pattern for both tunics is based on standard Japanese traditional patterning concepts, which seemed reasonable enough given the original influences on the movie costume designs.
The inner tunic is slightly larger, with a wider neck opening so that the inner tunic can easily show through. This layer took far longer than anything else, because I decided to use stretchy, crinkly cotton gauze. I really wanted the texture, but I quickly realized that I would have to flatline every piece (with white cotton broadcloth) before I could assemble it. The lining can be seen here at the neck opening. I also had to do all the hems by hand, since machine topstitching was not an attractive option on the gauze.
Here you can see the tuck at the shoulder. I took it in a few inches right at the point of the shoulder and tacked it down on the inside.
The sash/obi is made with the same type of construction as the outer tunic. I cut down the length when I first made it, then added the part I'd removed back in once the layers underneath started to multiply. Here is the first appearance of the 2" velcro that you will see more of later. It is self-adhesive, which was often more trouble than it was worth, as it made it harder to sew down.
The tabard went through a few design changes along the way. I had originally planned to have it hang down in the back the same as the front, but it turned out I was about 12" short on the linen/rayon blend I got for the outside layer. I added the bottom panel in the rear so I could more easily secure the tabard under the sash. I had about enough of the linen left over at the end to make a handkerchief. The two sides of the tabard are tacked together at the center front, and have ties on the sides to keep them from sliding around quite so much. The ties are hidden under the sash once everything is on. I haven't added anything to keep the shoulders from sliding off yet. We'll see if that becomes a necessity later.
I interlined the tabard with a double layer of upholstery fabric I've had kicking around for many years and was never going to use for anything.
The full length photo gives a pretty good idea of what the robe looks like. Here is a detail photo of the hood attachment. I took the suggestion found on some web guides to cover the join with a binding strip. I pleated the hood into the neck opening rather than gathering, since it was just plain easier.
I had wanted the robe to be longer and have much wider sleeves, but I underestimated how much I would need when I bought fabric. The robe as it is literally used every bit of the fabric I had, save the raggedy edges I had to cut off. I had to make the binding shown here out of two pieces because I didn't have a single piece long enough to do the job. It's the same fabric as the tabard, but dyed a bit darker in the same dye bath as the inner tunic. For once, the linen dyed fine and the cotton didn't.
I bought these boots for $10 (+ shipping) on eBay. They're quite used and weathered, which was just fine with me. Now, depending on the shoe, I wear either a 10 or an 11, and these were a 10. They fit quite well (if snugly) once I got them on, but getting my feet in and out was worryingly difficult. I decided the best option was to open up the side seam and rig up a way to close and cover it. I put velcro on either side of the boot seam (with some E6000 to enhance the adhesive) and a pair of grommets to tie it closed before putting the armor plate in place. The plate is a piece of aluminum with two mostly decorative leather straps held on with rivets and more velcro. I was a little worried about using this kind of kludgey method, but once I saw this page I didn't feel so bad about it.
I wasn't able to find the exact right style of pen lid to make the food pellets, so I settled for a cheap set of highlighters that were close enough for me. I glued a bead into the bottom of each one and hit them with some spray paint.